Monday 30 May 2011

Nothing's taxing in Taxco

"Pulling out our hair, drowning in despair. With a whole lot of nothing, on your way to nowhere".  Whole lot of nothing is bang on the mark. We certainly didn't see any loco in Acapulco. Not sure anybody did!

Some super bikers were still cruising the strip, presumably been on the go all night, as we checked out from our cell. We are so out of here. We couldn't get on the bus quick enough and funnily enough Jaryd and Stuart were right behind us!

Our destination, north to Taxco. The city is heavily associated with silver, both with the mining of it, along with other metals, and for the crafting of it into jewellery, silverware and other items. I was going to have to keep an eye on Fe and the wallet!

It was a short walk from the bus station to our hostel. A Dr Juan Antonio was running the show. He's was a bit like the mad Dr Nikolas Van Helsingwas from the Cannonball run!

As we felt the cobbled streets beneath our feet again it was easy to switch back to the more easier side of Mexican living. This is the real Mexico. Birds tweeting, locals chatting, us replying where we could, all under the shade of the Plaza Borda zocalo, oh and another beautiful twin towered baroque wedding cake of churches standing guard over the plaza. We are far from religious but however many of these churches we faced they never seemed to fail or disappoint from the outside or from within.

This is the sort of Mexico we wanted to see. Not a Mexico creation for holiday camp lovers. Whilst small Mexican towns like Taxco remain as they are we can confidently say we will never look to return to Acapulco. Ever. These kind of small towns give you more of an insight into Mexican life than any amount of time spent in a place like Acapulco.

The town is located high into the hills at 1755m above sea level. There are some seriously steep narrow streets and walkways that all seemed to divert into the main zocalo. Due to it's steep setting many many VW Beetles vroom from street to street ferrying around locals, produce and well anything that can be fitted into these fantastic looking fun cars. It seemed at times they were the only type of car in the town.

A bit like San Muguel we arrived into Taxco at the weekend. But instead of being greeted by a Mexican wedding this time we were greeted with not 1 but 2 funerals. The coffins were carried through the village's very steep streets with trailing family, friends and not forgetting the enthusiastic Mexican band bringing up the rear. Making a sad situation into a more celebratory one of a past life. The queue of honking V-dub beetles on this occasion just had to wait!

We spent the afternoon exploring the cobbled lanes, licking ice creams in and around the zocalo and photographing beetles zipping in and out of this charming little square. We bought two paintings from an old chap, Celestino.  He had lived on the streets of Taxco since the age of 4. When the Americans arrived into Mexico in the 40's a small colony started up English lessons so he went along. Consequently his English was fanastico! We sat and talked for ages about his passion for artwork, world wars, the state of Mexico today and how crime has become to dominate the country's headlines. Celestino now believes that the criminal gangs in operation today are far more powerful that the police and the federal government put together. All this while  Fe took time in deciding which paintings to take home, flicking through Celestino´s 90 plus collection of original art. Lovely, lovely chap.

With the disappointment of Acapulco still grinding in our minds we ended up discussing it with a few other bods we crossed paths with in Taxco, just to see if it was us. Thankfully it wasn't as many recently had seen it just the way we had. Harley rally aside, most seemed to think the place is now way out of control.

With the rainy season just starting, that evening we were treated to a spectacular thunder & lightening show followed by heavy rain. With it so hot and dry in the day the rain must be very welcome by many.

Fe had an unlucky day, she was pooped on by a bird, soaked by a lady cleaning her balcony and then questioned by the police in the Zocalo as to why she was in Mexico!

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