Monday 6 June 2011

The Plaza Garibaldi, just about.

For nearly a month now we have wanted to visit this frenetic gathering site of mariachi bands. Tonight we were all set to go, but it nearly didn't come off! When will I ever learn.

Whilst popping out for the regulation mid morning americano we bumped into Pepe, a proud local chilango that we did a fantastic city walking tour with back when we first arrived in Mexico. In true form he was excited and enthusiastic to see us. As normally he never meets first time tour takers a second time round. We chatted for a while and he was really keen to hear where we had been and what we had seen within his country and to find out why we were now back in Mexico city.Keen to celebrate the great news that baby Frank had entered the world, we suggusted a much awaited night at the Plaza Garibaldi.

This plaza is the capital's notorious meeting place for hundreds of competing Mariachi bands that gather each evening, all in their tight silver-spangly charro finery and vast sombreros, to play for anyone who is willing pay them! Normally around 80 peso's per song, around 4 pounds. A typical Mariachi band consists of two or four violinists. A brass section of say three trumpeters and three to four other guys on guitars. Oh yeah and a vocalist. The latter normally being the boss- guy come chief serenader.

The time of our meet, 8 o'clock "sharp". Much to Fe's delight Pepe is well known for his time keeping so we were conscious that we didnt want to be late. Foolishly at 17:05, after a Skype call to newly formed family Rob, Emma & baby Frank, we called my rents following a skype message that they were too "online". 1 hour 50 minutes later!!, calling the place that we're both going to be within the month, westruggled to wind up the "quick" catch up call. So some 5500 miles from home and a "quick" call to my rents they still managed to make us late, gggrrrrr. When will I ever learn, there is no such thing as a quick call home...

So after the quickest turn-around-of the bike ever we get to Mexico city's famed Zocalo 10 minutes late and a stomach full of food. No sign of Pepe. Grrrrrrr. With no way of communicating we just had to stand and hope we'd not missed our chance.A further 10 minutes passed, hmmmm. Then Pepe arrives. Thankfully he too had been delayed, although not by rents unable to end a phone call, merely metro night maintenance. With buenas noches and hand shakes all round we swiftly headed off to hopefully catch a slice of the much awaited Mariachi action. The nearer we got to the main plaza the more energetic the atmosphere became. As did the feeling of a supper that had been consumed in under 3 minutes flat. Pepe said not to stress and was sure that a tequila would settle our indegestion.

When will I ever learn, there is no such thing as a quick call home...

We thoroughly enjoyed our evening with Pepe. Somehow at 15 years of age, sat facing a old, dull, bearded guy bang on about history seemed pretty boring. 22 years on and sat with a excitable, tequila drinking, Mexican archaeologist the world's history takes on a whole new appeal. This guy's energy is infectious. Frappe margaritas, fascinating conversation and great music! Ohh the music. We got through so much conversion. One being that Mexico is such a religous country in one hand but in the other it has such a relaxed approach to many topics such as same sex marriages, abortion and uthinasia, all permitted here. We discussed the country's drug cartels, which to two outsiders is just fascinating to say the least. Underworld mobs are now targeting, and in places successfully controling, drug rehab centres!
Recently even performing a mass line up style shoot out at a rehab meeting of staff and reformed addicts.

Pepe mentioned that his tour numbers were becoming less and less every year. In his view a direct impact on tourism because of the negative press. He couldn't understand that the US are still happy to advice their citizens not to travel to certain countries, Britain and Mexico being high on the list but his country has never be exposed to anything like 9-11.

The evening flew by and we enjoyed the music, the company and of course the tequila!

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