Had a great beachside day at Waikiki. The swell was constant and pretty easy going. Hired a nice Mickey Munoz 11ft woody. Yes, that's 11ft. Just as well I hired it on the beach as I wouldn't want to carry this stick far! Spent a good few hours messing around with the locals. When I say locals these guys were all from the west coast main land, California. The wave here is sooooo chiiiilllled, so gentle and rolling but with a real push. The hardest thing being the paddle out and in as the first 100ft off the beach is pretty reefy underfoot so it's a paddle fest either way.
This is where surfing has it's ancestral roots, the Hawaiian Kings used to surf here, and it's easy to see why. It's a pleasure to surf, no wave calling, no aggressive locals to deal with. All just real easy.
Outrigger Hawaii 5-O traditional style canoes are also catching waves. Filled with non-surfing tourists riding straight through the crowd, trying to avoid boards and bodies left, right and centre. All the while the guy at the back sounding out the theme to Jaws on a shell horn as they ride clean waves into the bay.
This place is surf crazy. Reckon there are more surfboards here than actual people. At the beachside there are board storage racks. These are lockable upright longboard racks to ease the pain of transporting these monsters from home to beach. Not many boards here are under 10ft!
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