'Hola! Right hope were are all ready for the off. And that this morning everyone has taken their vitamin Ts (Tacos, Tortillos and Tequila). We will start de tour'. Meet Gerson, a Chilango archeologist with a overbrimming oomph for all things Mexican. We were off to a flying start. Not many city centres have direct access to a historic pyramid site, once the home of the Great Pyramid of Tenochtitlan, or the Tenochtitlan Sun Pyramid. This pyramid dominated the central area probably because it was around 50 or 60m high! As our eyes cast around the city's central square, most buildings are well below this height. This once Aztec pryramid was also called Templo Mayor and many other buildings that were associated with this temple surrounded the pyramid’s base. Gerson expressed great sadness that following the conquest of the Spaniards, the Great Pyramid of Tenochtitlan was mostly destroyed.
From grand pryramids it was off to the Palacio Nacional. Now we had already visited this building on our own and been impressed but then to go with an Chilango archaeologist brought a totally different experiance. Home to the Mexican Congress, hence the “Robo Cop” styled security guards on the first floor balcony, who Gerson openly bantered with, something we hadn't dared to at the time of our inital visit for the fear of being shot. This grand Palacio Nacional was constructed in the latter part of the 17th century. Gerson certainly was keen for all of us to engage with the many murals, which are well displayed around the interior that illustrate prominent scenes from the city's history.
In a quick skirt across the main square, dodging through the city's still protesting electrical engineer's tents and banners, brought us to a site of some rough looking ground. The exact spot where the original Aztec calander was found. Until one year ago a rather grand gold plate marked this spot. Then one barmy warm night it was stolen. These thieves had some nerve as not only is it in the centre of probably the most guarded location in Mexico its also right next to six lanes of traffic that never seems to reduce.
We reach the site of the first and longest serving hospital constructed on the continent of America. Yes this hospital is located within the heart of a sprawling city, but this is no BRI! Although it did have a rather ugly 1970s extention glued on the side of it like a wart. But the majority of it was just stunning architecture. It has served the needs of the sick and ailing since 1524. Originally called the Hospital de la Purisima Concepcion de Nuestra Senora (Hospital of Our Lady of the Purest Conception), it was built with the economic support of conquistador Hernan Cortes, so as to serve the needs of poor Spanish soldiers and Native Americans. It seemed a odd choice of locations to visit but on leaving the site we both agreed it was well worth visiting for its sixteenth century stone arches and the mural by Orozco that depicts the encounter between the Spaniards and Native Americans. That again would have meant little without the help of a very enthusastic Chilango archaeologist
Next for a true Mexican drink. A crowd of young Mexicans were carrying on behind a classic set of western swinging doors, the main entrance to this tiny colonial structure. The Pulqueria La Risa, a pulque parlour, sits just around the corner from our hostel. A place where we must have walked passed a fair few times but without Gerson leading the way we probably wouldn't have fancied venturing inside. Well the facade alone doesn't really emulate the spirit of "The Old Fox" kind of welcome. We entered the normally uninviting "Pulqueria La Risa" to receive high fives and man-hugs. We then found ourselves facing a shelf above the bar holding barrel shaped urns, just sitting there full of pastel coloured liquids. Old timers generally like their pulque straight up. The bar tender informs us that it's very common now that most pulquerías “cure” their pulque with various natural flavours to make the beverage somewhat more palatable, resulting in a milkshake like concoctions called “curados”. The menu may include such flavours as tamarind, guava, walnut and strawberry, and from time to time, beet (“for the heart”) and celery (“for diabetes”) make an special appearance. We ordered and took a seat.
Gerson informed us that no drink is more Mexican than pulque, not even the well known tequila or mescal. Pulque has been consumed by Mexicans since Aztec times and no fewer than four Aztec deities are devoted to the beverage. Fe was curious of its content as it was only just over the yard-arm. It is made from the same plant as tequila (the magical maguey), although pulque is not distilled. Sometimes called drool, babylon, bear soup, white face, moustache broth, chalk and nectar of the gods. You could easily say pulque is the sort of drink you have to learn to like, probably because we had never tasted anything like it before. In its natural state, the white, viscous liquid slides down your throat pretty easy. It should only have an alcohol content similar to that of beer. Gerson commented on its healthy properties informing us is was one step away from meat on the nutritional scale, as he dispensed another greenish version of the beverage into our tall mug glasses. Local students seemed to be keeping the young Pulque vibe alive. Gerson stated that the students visit the humble haunts like the Pulqueria La Risa as it will never be found in main line bars or clubs of Mexico City or even in cantinas, (A Spanish wine shop or bar). Only 70 or so pulquerías remain in Mexico City, most are extremely rustic places with bathroom-tile facades and institutional green interiors. Most venues are patronised by a handful of elderly men who tote their own containers to be filled. But in certain pulquerías that demographic is changing. As Gerson articulately put it, the Mexican youth have now collectively rediscovered the virtues of pulque and are more than happy with the scruffy vibe of the pulquería! As we downed our last drops, a final look round brought my attention to a urinal behind a greasy curtain. A reminder that these places can certainly not be acused of losing any of their rustic, minimal hygienic ambience. Before we left Gerson handed us a salt cellar, "take some salt off a wetted left thumb knuckle. If not the rest of the afternoon you will feel as bloated as a hot balloon". We did as we were told and exited through the magical double swing doors, the sun hitting our eyes hard.
Now for some food to soak up the pulqueria. A cake shop! We've been amazed by the amount of bakeries here. This cake shop was epic. the second floor was dedicated to grand celebration cakes, quite frankly putting Deila Smith in the shade. All sorts of shapes and sizes.
Last was the grandest post office ever. Now this place looked like it could manage a simple task of redirecting ones mail! Fe queued at counter 3 to request details on how to set up a transfer from the still currently failing infamous Royal Mail, non-existing, redirection service. The golden jewel of the Historical Centre of Mexico City, the Palacio de Correos. To you and I the humble Post Office but in Mexico City known as a Palace. A most brilliant example of the eclectic architecture of the the first years of the 20th Century in the city. With all this gold detail it wasn't hard to understand that at the end of the XIXth century when Porfirio Diaz, the president of Mexico at that time, entrusted the project of a new post office building to a Italian architect, Adamo Boari and a Mexican engineer, Gonzalo Garita y Frontera. From the exterior you're faced with bronze lamps, dragons and gargoyle faces. The interior provides gold leafed back room marble clad areas, where they simply sort mail! I will think of this place next time I'm stood over-heating, in a 10 deep queue at our local PO branch facing many "positioned closed" counter signs at the busiest times of the day. The construction of this magificant building started in 1902 and took five years to complete. This building wouldn't look out of place in the middle of Italy or France.
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