From the Tasman Bay we drove across to the west coast into the region known as the land unto itself. Our route from north to east coast followed the twisting and turning Murchinson river and well known tortuous Buller river. Both snaking through the mountains and some sensational big-country landscapes. At one point the road reduced to a single lane to make way for Hawks Crag. A solid piece of overhanging granite that reaches out over the road. Highway 6 is a real primo drive.
All was good with the world apart from a odd fishy come eggy smell that seemed to be drifting from the back of the van. We stopped for lunch and I got my ovies on to try and locate the whiff source and on getting closer to the leisure battery it was clear it was the culprit. The battery seemed to have decided to cook itself and then everything around it. So on arriving at the next big-ish town on the coast, Westport (home to a high street with no less than 12 pubs, clearly TV wasn't that popular here) we gave the rental company a call for some advice on what next. All pretty swiftly they put us in touch with a local garage. An hour later Brian, Westport's answer to all things battery, was all across it and we were back on the road again, on the road again. No drama, though it took a few cook-ups to get rid of the lingering smell!
Next morning, everything and everybody, fully charged, smell still lingering, we drove from Westport to Castle Hill via Greymouth to meet up with Gilly and Charlie, the lovely couple we met in the north island. On route we passed through Paparoa National Park. The home of the Pancake Rock. For centuries huge west coast swells have battered and eroded these limestone cliffs, carving them into the most amazingshapes with a layer type appearance.
We continued on our route, Highway 6, which gave some stunning coastal views. The guide books rave-on regarding this drive and we can only agree with their claims of it being a total stunner. It twists and
turns running parallel with the sea. A real shame that all this beauty comes to a abrupt halt as Greymouth pops up on the horizon. A hard looking town sat within the Grey Valley at the end of the Grey River.
All aptly named really. The day was also rather grey so this didn't help it's cause to look anything but, well, grey. It seems the place is only really known by many for the miners that lost their lives in the Pipe River explosion last year. Greymouth town fits perfectly into our new category known as 'BBN' (better by night). On a plus point though, it did have a great bakery in the high street. Cakes on board we headed out of town almost as quickly as we had arrived.
The last leg took us east through Arthur's Pass. A drive not for the faint hearted. On your approach signs question drivers of their ability to negotiate alpine terrain. In some sections the poor Toyota was under a fair bit of pressure, even struggling right down in second gear for a few of the steep and gnarly sections. Was it a case that someone was going to have to get out and push? Great views though hey.
Once through we then had 40 hairy minutes of 'have we enough fuel ?'. Arthur's Pass hadn't claimed the Toyota but it certainly took a swipe of our fuel gauge. We finally got to easier ground and into a fuel
spot prior to successfully regrouping with Charlie and Gilly. It was great to see them again and catch up on all things travel related.
C & G are expert climbers and had brought all their kit away with them so we agreed to have a bash at climbing. They found a spot for us to have a go at. All climbs are graded, we aren't sure of the grade of our climb but it felt pretty steep! We had to wear the special climbing shoes to give us a good grip, unfortunately Charlie's feet seem to fit into pretty small shoes so my size 10 struggled. I know they had to be snug but this was crazy tight. All we know is that Charile Woodburn 'top-roped it' therefore we felt safe in the hands of the master - Charile Woodburn. You can check out Charlie's stats: http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/team/charlie-c-304_353.html
The following day, morale high, after a long lazy breakfast. C and G went off to further their climbing fix and we went off for a little 3 hour jaunt up Bearly Valley. As we just couldn't face pulling on those 3 sizes too small climbing shoes again. Day done we soon regrouped in the Toyota for a cook-up and constant natter.
'On days like these' it's going to be tough to return to 'normal life'.....
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