These majestic lands severely tested those early settlers who tried to tame it. Even back then and todate we can strongly confirm that in these parts the sandflies were and are nothing but 'voracious'. Yes, they are a very useful cog in the big eco-machine but they are a real pain. The Maori belief is that the creation of the Te Namu (sandfly) lies with the goddess of the underworld, Hinenuitepo. As when she gazed at the beauty of what Tuterakiwhanoa had crafted, Tuterakiwhanoa thought to be the original carver of the Fiordland, she became fearful that humans would not want to leave such paradise. So the creation of Te Namu was a gentle reminder to us all not to linger for too long.The area gets 7200mm of rainfall per year. So much rain that the sea has a deep topping of 20 foot of fresh water. Within this World Heritage National Park there are some areas that have never ever been
explored due to their remoteness.
Kim Hollows, a local helicopter pilot, decided to share the views he gets everyday from his 'office'. Over a 10 year period he shot various scenes which he has now brought together to make a short film about the diverse Fiordland region. At this point mustn't forget to mention that once the film was complete Kim realised there was no cinema in Te Anau to actually show it. So he did what anyone would do with this much passion for his country, he built one. Not shown in any other cinema in the world we sat wowed for 30 minutes. Kim has pulled together some amazing footage of this place. It really just summed up our feelings for this country. Again proving that NZ is stunning. 2 cinema visits in as many days! If we carry on like this we will be film buffs by the end of the year.
Been thinking, the difference with NZ from other places is that it's not just how stunningly beautiful it is, it's that there's hardly anybody here to spoil that beauty. Most beautiful places you visit are rammed, overrun, packed out and like a bun fight. This then can ruin the beauty.
Back on the road the drive up to Milford Sound from Te Anau was quite simply awesome. An unforgettable journey. The staggering beauty is enough to put anyones head in a spin. It's an overpowering place that leaves you lost for words really. Going to have to learn some new words to help describe the beauty.
Quite literally hundreds of waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides like veins of a good blue cheese. Raging river rapids run right up to the edge of the road. You feel totally surrounded by water, a constant roar hits you at every twisting turn. Some falls are so high they disappear out of view through the low cloud that hangs over the mountains. The 20 odd km from the Divide to Milford gave us views we have never witnessed before. Pass the thesaurus, 'awesome' and 'stunning' are simply too weak. They just aren't making the grade!
On approaching the face of the Darran mountains you are met by the Honmer tunnel. A smallish looking opening beckons you in to a single lane tunnel that runs for about 1km long. In summer months it causes considerable delays as the traffic lights at either end change once every quarter of an hour. We gave the guys who built it some thought though as it took them 20 years to get through this solid granite mass. Once a year they hold a 'naked run' through the tunnel! All for charity mate. As you emerge from this dark sloping tunnel you find yourself in an amphitheatre of mountains and waterfalls and you can't but help feel that you've reached a spot that you shouldn't have actually got too. Well not by driving at least. We pulled off the road and just sat in a moment of rare silence. This place was 'remarkable'.After the darkest campervan night ever, where it rained so hard it's brought up 3 warning lights on our dashboard (and this is without keys being in the ignition!) we headed out early to cruise the famous
Milford Sound. With all the overnight rains the water run off from the mountains didn't make for the clearest of waters on the Sound, never the less though all pretty impressive stuff. It took us out as far as St Anne Point, the point where the Tasman Sea meets the Sound. From sea looking back into the entrance of the fiord it looks just like one solid cliff face. Old Cookie sailed past here twice, missing it on both occasions! Then a Welshman called Captain Grono from Milford Haven came bumbling by in 1823 and finally discovered it thinking it was a good sheltered spot to moor. Thus he named it 'Milford' after the South coast Welsh port. This place is so isolated they are not on the electricity grid. Bowen falls not only looks dramatic it also supplies electricity to the surrounding community via a hydro-plant and also supplies fresh drinking water. The water being so pure no treatment is required just filtering only. At the deepest point the Sound is around 300 metres deep. The total height of many of the visible mountains from summit to seabed run up to 1 mile. All making you feel very small and insignificant! These solid granite beech tree lined mountains have been carved open by ice over tens of thousands of years ago. We passed the Pembroke Glacier which is over a million years old. Fur seals lazed on the rocks only semi interested in what we were up to. On a windless day they often spend much of their time in the water as like us they are victims if the dreaded sandflies.
No comments:
Post a Comment